Let me preface this by saying that I know Before & Afters are all the rage on photog blogs, so clearly I am not original in posting this. However, I thought it was timely as I prepare for upcoming workshops. During my workshops, often the question of Photoshop comes up and people ask me how [...]
Let me preface this by saying that I know Before & Afters are all the rage on photog blogs, so clearly I am not original in posting this. However, I thought it was timely as I prepare for upcoming workshops.
During my workshops, often the question of Photoshop comes up and people ask me how much I have to do. Many people assume I spend hours “photoshopping” images so they appear their best. It’s almost assumed that the “Photoshop” part of it is the biggest component of a great image. And so during my workshop, most of the images I show are Straight out of Camera (SOOC).
I am a minimalist when it comes to Photoshop. I always believe less is more, and usually better. I have heard other photogs say “you would have to pry my SOOC images out of my dead hands before a client saw them…” or “I can’t wait until I get my hands on that in Photoshop.” And while that is all well and good, my firm belief (and I think this is the norm among most professionals) is that if it’s not awesome SOOC, it’s just putting lipstick on a pig if you use Photoshop to make it better.
That said, I do “process” every image in Photoshop, so what’s the difference? Here’s the deal… most cameras come with image presets that set saturation, contrast, and sharpness. They aren’t set at a crazy number, but they definitely add “oomph” to SOOC images. And if you shoot JPEG, your entire image is compressed and all those presets are applied. So if you shoot JPEG with great exposure, your image is 90% there.
I shoot totally flat RAW images, meaning every preset is 0. I don’t sharpen in the camera because I find it adds “artifacts” into the image (little speckles of noise). So when my images come out, they are properly exposed, but everything is incredibly flat. I minimally process each image in Adobe Camera Raw (ACR) –typically I recover whites to 10-15 and I adjust white balance, which is usually close to accurate. When I bring the image into Photoshop, I run an action that increases contrast, adds yellow (that is a personal preference), flattens the image and very lightly sharpens. I also use a mask to tell me if my image has bright spots brought on by my action. This step is critical because although sometimes bright images are just fine on the web, they won’t print well — and if they won’t print, I won’t show it. I don’t mess with eyes… and that includes whitening eyeballs. To the question “What do you do to make the eyes look like that?” — the answer is “I use light.” If there are obvious temporary blemishes (or food), I will “Photoshop” those off. And yes, on an occasion, I have “swapped a head” (usually at the mom’s request)… but that is not the norm. I prefer to ensure I nailed composition and expression in the camera rather than spending time altering in Photoshop.
Now there are some images that require more editing. Specifically shooting sunflare. Typically those images require a strong contrast curve to jack down the blacks. In those instances, it is what it is, but it’s still just basic processing. And if you just HAVE to move an awkward object out of the background in an otherwise great image, you do it. And I clean up boogies and newborn acne. Sometimes, usually about 1X a month, I get a wild and I add crazy processing to an image. That said, they are usually my personal images and not client images because I like to stay consistent on those.
Landing the plane… this “getting it right in the camera” is the primary reason why I have structured my workshops the way I have. I believe if you can learn to do this (get it right with composition and lighting), then Photoshopping your images should be a secondary skill that comes much after you have learned about light, composition, and manual exposure (Manual Exposure & Post-Processing are the main components of Snap Camp).
Here’s an example of how much “Photoshop” I typically do to a properly exposed image. In ACR, I upped the whites to 30 for her tank. That’s it. I ran my standard action in PS, then I erased back anything in her tank that was too bright – and by erasing back I mean that I brought it back to the SOOC state. I flattened and lightly sharpened. Voila.
If you found tips like this to be helpful, please let me know and I’ll start a category where I can share them!





Super information. Thanks Kristina! Still working to nail that SOOC at my house.
THanks for the tips! I have a new Nikon D5000 that I got for Christmas and have been playing with. I love it! Now if only my mind would engage before I hit the button! I’m always up for hints and tips! THANKS!
Please keep these awesome tidbits coming. I love learning about them.
Please continue with the tips and pointers! I have enjoyed your blog for awhile now, and would love to learn more. Especially because I can understand your info, other websites tend to be over my head!
GREAT information. Is your action one that you created yourself? I can see how it warmed the picture up a just a bit.
I couldn’t have said it better.
Loved this post- I too spend about 2 minutes per image in PS- the moment in PP I live for is that moment when I flip back in to Bridge after finishing in PS and see that original SOOC, and realize the brilliant difference that bit of PP made to bring that true image (that was previously in my minds eye) to the surface. Never get tired of it!
I too feel, as I’ve taught, a huge passion to empower new shooters to perhaps not even mingle much with PS until they feel very in command of their DSLR. I actually decided to barely teach PS at all for that reason- it’s just slightly mentioned. I’d rather spend our time on the things they trully need first and only teach PS basics on an individual basis.